Cosmetic dressing containing a waxy cmponent, a film-forming agent and a gel-forming substance

ABSTRACT

A cosmetic preparation in the form of an O/W emulsion which, besides usual cosmetic ingredients, contains a wax component, a film-forming system and at least one gel component, wherein the gel component has at least one swollen hydrocolloid.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The invention concerns a cosmetic preparation, in particular apreparation for coloring and forming keratinic material, and a processfor the production thereof and the use thereof.

Cosmetic preparations with which keratinic material, for exampleeyelashes, can be colored, have already long been known. In order to dojustice to the many different requirements which are to be made on sucha preparation, improvements have been repeatedly developed. Compositionswhich are applied to eyelashes are intended on the one hand to providefor good coloring of the eyelashes, but they should not come off on tothe surrounding area. They should adhere well to the eyelashes, but theyshould also be easy to remove again. They should be easy to apply, theyshould impart an attractive shape to the eyelashes and they shouldretain that shape even after drying. In addition the compositions shouldbe of such low viscosity that they can be satisfactorily applied but onthe other hand dry quickly so that the material is not smudged. Inaddition the product is to be so stable that it can be stored underambient conditions for a prolonged period of time.

Many different materials have been proposed to resolve all those, partlycontradictory tasks. Current mascaras contain a wax component whichprovides for adhesion to the eyelashes, a film-forming agent whichprovides for an attractive shape and maintaining that shape and bindingagent for setting the viscosity in a suitable range. Mascaras arefrequently emulsions in which the continuous phase is formed by waterwhile the discontinuous phase is formed by the wax component. Thus forexample U.S. Pat. No. 6,210,692 describes cosmetic emulsions which aresuitable inter alia as mascara and which are made up of an aqueous phaseand a fat phase, containing for stabilisation purposes two differentbinding agents, namely a hydrophilic thickening agent and apolysaccharide ether, in which respect the use of such thickening agentswhich form gels with the aqueous phase is to be avoided. Those emulsionsare to be particularly well-suited to caring for and treating dry andsensitive skin.

U.S. Pat. No. 6,325,994 also discloses a cosmetic composition which issuitable in particular as mascara, comprising a lipophilic phase withfat and wax, and a lipophilic polymer, the lipophilic polymer being aspecial acrylate-methacrylate copolymer. The composition can also be inthe form of an emulsion with an aqueous phase. In addition thecomposition can contain usual additives such as dyes, pigments andfillers. Although that composition is said to be water-resistant andvery durable it is however still not satisfactory in every respect.

The literature describes many other similar compositions which usuallycontain waxes, oils, binding agents and coloring agents and which canalso be in the form of oil-in-water emulsions. The known compositionshowever suffer from at least one of the following disadvantages. Many ofthe known emulsions are not sufficiently stable for them to be processedin the heated condition. As however a heat treatment is necessary forcosmetic compositions, that requires special treatment steps which arecomplicated and expensive.

By virtue of the composition thereof it is frequently difficult toincorporate pigments in such a way that they remain stably in thecomposition without forming lumps or settling. Compositions which enjoygood adhesion to keratinic material are often difficult to removetherefrom again. In particular water-resistant compositions can nolonger be removed by aqueous preparations. A major problem which occursin particular with mascaras is that particles migrate out of thecomposition and either settle on the skin, which gives rise tounattractive discoloration effects, or, and this is even more serious,they can get into the eye and for example in the case of contact lenswearers discolor the lenses and thus render them useless.

The inventors of the present application therefore set themselves theobjects of developing a product which is simple to produce and which canbe produced reliably and reproducibly without a special set of machines,into which pigments can be easily incorporated and remain stablycontained therein, which is stable even at elevated temperature andwhich can be heated without separation or decomposition, which atelevated temperature is of such a viscosity that it can be easilyintroduced into a container, which can be easily applied, which haslong-term adhesion, which can extend the length of the eyelashes, givevolume to the eyelashes and not be transferred on to lid surfaces, whichis water-resistant and tear-resistant, which does not crumble off afterdrying and which can be easily removed again.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The objects are attained by a cosmetic preparation which is in the formof an O/W emulsion and which besides usual cosmetic ingredients containsa wax component, a film-forming agent and a gel component, wherein thegel component contains at least one swollen hydrocolloid.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

It was surprisingly found that the use of a swollen hydrocolloid cangive the preparation structure and in addition can bind coloring agentsand pigments in such a way that they can no longer migrate out of thematerial so that the applied dried material does not run, even uponcoming into contact with water. In addition the swollen hydrocolloidstabilises the structure of the preparation in solid and fluid conditionso that no separation of the components of the mixture occurs even atelevated temperature. This has the advantage that it can be heatedwithout problem and can be introduced into containers in the heatedcondition. Production of the preparation according to the invention issimple and can be easily and reliably effected with conventionalavailable apparatuses.

The cosmetic preparation is intended in particular to be applied tokeratinic material, in which respect in particular eyelashes, eyebrows,hair and hair pieces are envisaged. The preparation according to theinvention is particularly suitable as mascara.

The most important constituents of the preparation according to theinvention, besides the water forming the continuous phase of theemulsion, are a wax component, a film-forming system and at least onegel component.

The wax component comprises at least one wax and preferably additionallyat least one oil and/or fat which can respectively be of vegetable,animal, mineral or synthetic origin. In addition the preparation maypreferably contain at least one emulsifier and optionally additionallyat least one co-emulsifier in order to facilitate processing of the waxcomponent to constitute an emulsion. In order to obtain an aestheticallyparticularly satisfactory end product, the wax component canadditionally contain a vinylpyrrolidone copolymer.

The wax component gives the material consistency and makes thepreparation water-resistant. For that purpose the wax component can bemade up of fat-like, oil-like and wax-like substances which can befluid, pasty or solid at ambient temperature. Preferably a combinationof at least one wax and at least one oil is used to adjust the optimumconsistency.

Preferably at least one wax which is solid at ambient temperature isused. Particularly preferred are such waxes with a dropping point ofbetween 50 and 200° C. Waxes with a dropping point below 50° C. cancause problems in terms of storability and waxes with a dropping pointabove 200° C. are in part difficult in regard to processing.

The waxes which are usually employed in cosmetics are suitable for thewax component used in accordance with the invention, in particularvegetable waxes such as carnauba wax and candellila wax, ouricurri wax,japan wax, cotton wax, rice wax, flower waxes, hydrogenated jojoba oil;animal waxes such as beeswaxes and modified beeswaxes, inter alia Cerabellina, lanolin waxes and insect waxes; mineral waxes such as paraffinwaxes, microcrystalline waxes, montan waxes and ozocerite, as well assynthetic waxes such as Fischer-Tropsch waxes, wax polymer hybrids,polyethylene waxes, silicone waxes and azelaic acid dioleyl esters,azelaic acid dibehenyl esters, behenyloleate, cetyl palmitate andmixtures of all the stated waxes. In a particularly preferred featureanimal waxes and synthetic waxes as well as in particular mixturesthereof are used.

At least one fat or oil is contained in the wax component in order toadjust the viscosity of the mass and to impart workability to the mass.For that purpose both animal and also vegetable fats and oils can beconsidered, which can also be used in hydrogenated or modified state.Examples of suitable fats and oils are rapeseed oil, sunflower oil,sesame oil, groundnut oil, thistle oil, coconut oil, hydrogenatedcoconut oil, castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, beef tallow,isopropylmyristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropylstearate,isobutylstearate, isostearylisostearate, oleyloleate, jojoba oil,caprylic/capric triglyceride and similar synthetic triglyerides,paraffin oil, polybutene, squalane, squalene and mixtures thereof,synthetic esters, silicone oils, in which respect both volatile and alsonon-volatile oils are considered here, in particular dimethicone andcyclomethicone as well as volatile and non-volatile isoparaffins.Mixtures of those constituents are preferred. Thus frequently both anon-volatile fat or oil and also a volatile oil are contained in orderto provide different properties. In an embodiment the wax componentcontains volatile ingredients, in particular synthetic esters, siliconeoils, dimethicone and cyclomethicone and isoparaffins in a concentrationof up to 20%.

As mentioned preferably mixtures of waxes, fats and oils are used,wherein the respectively selected substances are employed in suchamounts that the desired properties such as texture and viscosity areachieved. The respective amounts and mixtures to be used are known tothe man skilled in the art and do not need to be discussed in greaterdetail here.

In addition the wax component may also have further ingredients whichare known per se to the man skilled in the art and which influenceproperties such as stability, viscosity, workability and durability.Thus for example it may contain sugar derivatives.

Preferably the wax component is used in such a proportion that it formsbetween 0 and 50%, preferably between 15 and 30% of the finishedcomposition, wherein the percentage information, like all suchinformation in the description unless otherwise specified, relates toweight. Within the wax component preferably the proportion of the wax orwaxes is between 20 and 100% and is particularly preferably between 70and 95%.

The fat or oil is usually added in such a proportion that theconsistency of the mass is in the desired range. Normally the proportionof fats and oils in the wax component, depending on the materials used,is between 20 and 80%, wherein the lower range is preferred.

In addition, as stated above, the wax component may also containemulsifiers and possibly additionally co-emulsifiers. They promoteemulsion formation and homogeneity and stabilise the emulsion formed.The selection of those ingredients is not critical, they must howeverinvolve the properties required for cosmetic compositions, in particularthey may not cause irritation and they may not be toxic. All ingredientswhich are usually employed in cosmetics and which are known to the manskilled in the art can be used here. Examples are anion-active,cation-active, non-ionogenic emulsifiers and amphotensides, as well aspolymer tensides which can be made up for example from copolymers, blockcopolymers and graft polymers, silicone tensides and polymer siliconetensides, silicone copolymers, PEG derivatives of natural fatty acidsand betaines.

The emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers are added to the wax component in theusual amounts; if present the preferred amount (in relation to the waxcomponent) is between about 0.5 and 40%. The optimum amount dependsinter alia on the nature and amount of the wax component and the natureof the emulsifiers used and can be easily established by routine tests.Particularly good results are obtained with a proportion in the range ofbetween 10 and 25%.

The second essential component of the cosmetic preparation according tothe invention is a film-forming system. The film-forming system isusually formed by a polymer or a plurality of polymers which is or arein dispersion or dissolved in a medium, wherein the polymer or polymersform a film upon removal of the medium, that is to say the solvent ordispersing agent. The solid content, depending on the respective amountof polymer and medium, is usually between 10 and 70%, preferably between20 and 40%. In the present application any system comprisingfilm-forming agent and medium (also referred to as solubilising agent,solvent or dispersing agent) is referred to generally as a dispersion inorder to exclude obscurities as the transitions between a solution and adispersion are fluid in the field of polymers. The expression‘dispersion’ therefore also includes solutions. Also included aresystems in which the film-forming polymer was solubilised for example bythe addition of an acid or a base. The medium is preferably water.

Film-forming polymers are known per se and all polymers which areusually employed for cosmetic preparations can be used. The film-formingagent, together with the wax component, leads to a very durable coatingfor the keratinic material, for example for eyelashes or eyebrows orhair.

The film-forming polymer can be a polycondensate, a radically producedpolymer or a polymer of natural origin. Film-forming systems which areparticularly suitable for the preparation according to the inventioncontain anionic, cationic, non-ionic and/or amphoteric polymers from theclass of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters and polyethers as well asderivatives thereof, PVP, polyamides, vinyl, acrylic and methacrylicpolymers and copolymers, epoxy esters, silicone polymers and copolymersand hybrid polymers formed from the above-mentioned polymers. Thefilm-forming system is usually in the form of a dispersion, aqueoussystems being preferred.

Particularly preferred film-forming agents are polyurethanes andpolyurethane copolymers such as polyurethane, for examplepolyurethane-acrylic acid copolymers,polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes,polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyester amides, polyesters withfatty chain, polyamides, epoxy ester resins and/or polypropyleneglycol-maleic ester copolymers. Many of those polymers are commerciallyavailable. A further preferred group are acryl polymers, acryl/styrenecopolymers, acryl/vinyl copolymers and acryl/silicone copolymers as wellas combinations of nitrocellulose and acryl polymer. Hybrid polymers canalso be used according to the invention. Polymers of natural originwhich can possibly also occur in modified form such as for examplepolysaccharide and cellulose derivatives are suitable. A mixture of twoor more of the listed polymers can also be used, in which case themixture is formed in such a way that the desired properties areachieved. The products approved by the CTFA, in particularpolyurethane-1 through polyurethane-13, are also particularly suitable.

The film-forming system is used in an amount which gives the desiredeffect. Amounts in the range of between about 5 and 95% are suitable. Inorder to achieve particularly advantageous properties, for example inrelation to durability and adhesion, amounts in the range of between 5and 60%, preferably between 20 and 35%, are used, the amount in anindividual case depending on the polymer used and the proportion andnature of the wax component and the gel component. The thicker thestructure formed by the gel component and the thicker the film formed ineach case, the correspondingly less can be the amount of film-formingsystem. The optimum amount can be easily found by the man skilled in theart. In this respect the indication of amount relates to the systemused, that is to say the amount of film-forming polymers andsolubilising agent.

The component, which is essential to the invention, of the cosmeticpreparation is a gel component which must be included in order toachieve the advantageous properties. It was found that the use of aswollen hydrocolloid as the gel component has a structure-forming actionand stabilises the structure in such a way that the composition, afterdrying, forms a durable, water-resistant film on keratinic material and,together with the film-forming agent and the wax component, retains allingredients in the composition in such a way that they are not leachedout, migrate out or bleed out. Therefore the gel component provides amaterial which is ideally suited to taking up and retaining coloringagents and pigments and also further ingredients.

The gel component is formed from at least one swollen hydrocolloid,swelling preferably being effected with water. It was established that ahydrocolloid in the swollen condition spreads the desired lattice whichthen, in combination with the film-forming system, can take up andstabilise other ingredients. In connection with the present inventionthe term hydrocolloids is to be used to identify such natural andsynthetic polymers which in solvents, in particular aqueous systems,form gels or viscous, in particular highly viscous solutions. Examplesare in particular celluloses and cellulose derivatives, starch andstarch derivatives, alginates, carrageens, pectins, tragacanth and gumsas well as polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone and also dextran.Although those substances in powder form are in part already known foruse as thickening agents in cosmetics, it was hitherto not recognisedthat in the swollen condition they can impart particularly advantageousproperties to a cosmetic preparation. It was now surprisingly found thatthose hydrocolloids in the swollen condition impart structure, stabilityand volume to the preparation according to the invention. The use of theswollen hydrocolloid according to the invention can even provide thatthe volume, of the preparation scarcely decreases or does not decrease,after the drying operation. As a result the preparation according to theinvention, after drying, also makes the eyelashes longer and fuller andenhances the aesthetic impression.

It is essential therefore that the hydrocolloid is used in the swollencondition for production of the preparation according to the inventionand it is not just caused to swell in the preparation. Particularly goodproperties are achieved if the hydrocolloid is swollen in heated water,in particular in water at a temperature of between 40 and 100° C.Usually, the hydrocolloid is mixed with the water, for example withagitation, and is then preferably allowed to cool prior to furtherprocessing at least to about 40° C., particularly preferably to ambienttemperature. Swelling causes the physical properties of the hydrocolloidto be irreversibly changed, which affords the desired structure. Thepre-swollen hydrocolloid produced in that way is stable and storable andtherefore can also be stored prior to further processing for some time,for example some hours, or even still longer periods of time.

It is assumed that swelling causes the water binding capacity toincrease so that the finished composition can then later bind or holdmore water, which inter alia leads to the advantageous properties.

A preferred feature therefore involves using a hydrocolloid with a waterbinding capacity of between 100 and 600%, preferably between 200 and500% and in particular between 350 and 430%. The water binding capacityof the hydrocolloid can be determined using per se known methods, forexample with Karl-Fischer titration, or by a dry residue determinationprocedure.

It was further found that a hydrocolloid with a high swelling capacityat 80° C. is particularly advantageous. Preferred hydrocolloidstherefore are those whose swelling capacity is in a range of between 250and 500%, measured at 80° C. The swelling capacity can be determined inper se known manner, for example by a procedure whereby the hydrocolloidis heated in water and, after homogeneously swelling up (that is to saywithout lump formation), it is cooled with agitation to ambienttemperature, the supernatent water is decanted and the water absorbed isdetermined using the Karl-Fischer method or on a dry weighing device.

A particularly advantageous swelling capacity and a particularly highlevel of water binding capacity were established in the case of modifiedstarch which is therefore preferably employed. Examples of suitablestarches are vegetable starches, in particular cereal starches such aswheat, corn and rice starches, wherein rice starch in modified form isparticularly preferred.

In a preferred embodiment the hydrocolloid used is starch or a starchderivative or derivatised or modified starch, in particular rice starch.Particularly advantageous properties can be obtained with hydroxyalkyl-or dimethylimidazolidinone rice starch.

The swollen hydrocolloid, by virtue of its stability, can be stored fora prolonged period of time before it is subjected to further processingfor production of the cosmetic preparation. In order to prevent theswollen hydrocolloid becoming bacterially contaminated, a preservingagent can be added to the system of hydrocolloid and water. Preservingagents for such systems are well known to the man skilled in the art andthose which are suitable for foodstuffs and cosmetics can be used here.

In addition a dispersing additive can also be added to the system. Itwas found that a combination of preserving agent and dispersing additivesynergistically increases the germicidal effect. Benzyl alcohol and theesters thereof, parabens and salts thereof, phenylethyl alcohol, IPBC,formaldehyde cleaving agents such as diimidazolidinyl urea, organicaromatic acids, phenoxyethanol and others can be named as suitablepreserving agents. Examples of dispersing additives are PEG derivatives,non-ionic tensides, block polymers, esters of organic poly-acids, soapsof polyvalent metal salts, amino acids or esters thereof, siliconylacrylate copolymers and other known wetting agents.

In addition it is possible to use antioxidants such as tocopherol, NDGA,sesame oil, γ-oryzanol, rosemary oil, BHT and other agents used forcosmetics, for stabilisation of the preparation. If necessarymicrobiological stability can be guaranteed by the addition ofpreserving agents as are usual for cosmetics.

The proportion of the gel component (that is to say hydrocolloid inswollen condition) in the composition according to the invention canvary in a wide range. A preferred proportion is a proportion of between3 and 50%, particularly preferably between 3 and 20%. That proportionrelates to the weight of swollen hydrocolloid, that is to sayhydrocolloid including the absorbed proportion of liquid, in relation tothe composition. Below a proportion of 3% the effect is no longeroptimal and with a proportion of more than 50% viscosity and structureof the composition can be adversely affected. The proportion of thehydrocolloid in the swollen gel component can also vary within widelimits depending on the nature of the hydrocolloid and can be forexample between 5 and 90% depending on the respective swelling capacity.

The gel component of the preparation according to the invention mayfurther have a second gel of a natural polymer, preferably ahydrocolloid, in a monovalent and/or polyvalent alcohol. The second‘alcoholic’ gel serves to stabilise the structure and to influence therheological properties. In addition it can influence the dryingproperties of the preparation. The alcoholic gel component is notabsolutely necessary but it is included in preferred embodiments. Thepolymer of the second gel can be identical to the hydrocolloid of thefirst gel but is preferably different therefrom.

The second gel used is preferably cellulose derivatives which aresoluble in water and alcohol or in mixtures of water and alcohol, inparticular carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose,hydroxyethylcellulose or hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulosebeing particularly preferred. The cellulose derivative is so dissolvedor dispersed in the alcohol that a gel is formed. Preferably a mixturecomprising one or more monovalent alcohols with a chain length of C₂-C₄and a polyvalent alcohol with a chain length of between C₂ and C₆ andwith at least two hydroxyl groups is used for that purpose. Examples ofsuitable monovalent alcohols are ethanol, n-propanol, i-propanol,n-butanol, i-butanol, ethanol being preferred. Examples of polyvalentalcohols are propane diols such as propane-1,2-diol, dipropane diol,butane diols such as butane-1,2-diol, butane-1,3-diol, butane-1,4-diol,glycerine, diglycerine, triglycerine, diethylene glycols, amyl alcohol,hexane diols, such as hexane-1,2-diol, hexane-1,3-diol, pentaerythritol,sorbitol, xylitol, mannitol and alditol. The polyvalent alcohol ispreferably propane-1,2-diol or butane-1,3-diol. Preferably the cellulosederivative is firstly made into a suspension in the polyvalent alcoholand then the monovalent alcohol is added until the desired viscosity isreached. In that situation a highly viscous gel is formed, which canthen be mixed together with the further components of the preparationaccording to the invention.

If an alcoholic gel is used in the preparation according to theinvention, the amount thereof depends on the desired viscosity as wellas the drying properties. An amount of between 0 and 10%(polymer+alcohols) has proven to be appropriate. In that case theproportion of the polymer is in a range of between 0.5 and 20% of thegel. If the preparation dries very slowly the proportion of thealcoholic gel or the proportion of alcohol in the gel respectively canbe increased.

In addition the preparation according to the invention may also containfurther usual cosmetic ingredients which influence specific desiredproperties. An important ingredient for most cosmetic products arecoloring agents or pigments in order to produce a desirable color. Ithas been found that the preparation according to the invention issuitable for stabilising both organic coloring agents and also pigmentsin such a way that they are not leached out. All substances which areknown for cosmetics can be used as pigments or coloring agents. The onlyprerequisite is that the substances are not toxic and irritating. Thepigments are preferably used in micronised form. Examples of pigmentsare iron oxides, ultramarine, chromium oxide green, chromium hydroxidegreen, carbon black, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, barium sulfate,talcum and kaolin. Examples of organic coloring agents are lakes such asaluminum, barium, calcium, potassium, strontium and zinc lakes, carmineand other coloring substances which are well known to the man skilled inthe art. In addition the preparation may also contain pearl glosspigments. The particulate ingredients are used in the proportion whichis usually employed for cosmetics, the amount being selected independence on the nature of the particle phase and the desired effect.Preferably the proportion of the particulate ingredients is in a rangeof up to 30%, particularly preferably between 2 and 20%.

In addition the preparation according to the invention may containfillers and particulate substances which give a desired structure to themass. Those fillers and particles are also stabilised by the preparationaccording to the invention so that they do not settle. Examples aretalcum, kaolin, bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite, cerium oxide,silicon dioxide, boronitride, nylon powder, polyethylene powder,polypropylene powder, silk powder and mixtures thereof, polyvalent metalsoaps, non-swellable starches, fruit fibers, natural and syntheticexfoliation substances, sand, bran products, stone powder from stonefruits, algae derivatives, thermosetting, thermoplastic and elastomerpowders and mixtures and hybrids of the listed constituents.

In order to make the preparation velvety and glossy, it is also possibleto add plasticisers. Examples thereof are polyvalent alcohols and estersthereof such as glycerine, diglycerine, triglycerine, diethyleneglycols, amyl alcohol, hexane diols, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, xylitol,mannitol and alditol. Saccharose acetate isobutyrate,laureth-2-benzoate, ethylhexylsebacate, citric acid esters such astributylcitrate, synthetic short-chain esters, pentaerythritol estersand oligopentaerythritol esters.

If the preparation according to the invention is used as mascara,usually such pigments and coloring agents are used, which result in thecolors that are usually desired, namely black, blue, brown and gray. Itis however equally possible to produce differently colored preparationsin order for example to color the tips of the hair or the tips of theeyelashes in a different color from the rest of the hair or eyelashes.

The coloring ingredients, that is to say pigments and coloring agents,do not necessarily have to be included in the preparation according tothe invention. An embodiment is also possible in which coloring andstructure-imparting constituents are separate and firstly thepreparation according to the invention without coloring ingredients isapplied to the keratinic material and then a formulation of the coloringagents or pigments is applied.

The pH-value of the preparation according to the invention shouldpreferably be in the neutral to weakly basic range as many of thefilm-forming agents which are usually employed in cosmetics can alreadyprecipitate at a weakly acid pH-value. Therefore to adjust or buffer thepH-value the preparation possibly also contains basic agents and/orbuffering agents, for example NaOH, amines and conventional buffers.Preferably the pH-value of the preparation is so adjusted that it is ina range of between 6.5 and 8.8, particularly preferably between 6.8 and7.5.

In accordance with the invention therefore there is provided apreparation which is in the form of an emulsion and which combinesparticularly advantageous properties. The preparation can be easilyproduced, it leads to stable products, it can be easily subjected tofurther processing as it is stable in the hot condition and it producesa film which adheres for a long period of time without liberation of theingredients contained therein. The film causes the keratin fibers towhich it is applied to look full and ‘curls’ them in an attractive andlong-lasting manner. At the desired time the preparation can also beeasily removed again by applying water, optionally with wetting agent,which leads to swelling of the film whereby it can be easily taken offagain. The specific combination of wax component, film-forming agent andgel component forms a network or lattice which adheres durably to thekeratin fiber so that the result is a homogeneous, bulky film whichadheres firmly.

A further subject of the invention is a process for the production ofthat preparation.

To produce the cosmetic preparation according to the invention theaqueous gel component is firstly prepared by the hydrocolloid beingcaused to swell with water. For that purpose preferably heated waterwhich is advantageously at a temperature of between 40° C. and 100° C.,preferably between about 65 and 90° C., is brought into contact with thecolloid with agitation and then thereafter possibly cooled and allowedto swell. A preserving agent and/or a dispersing additive can alsooptionally be added to the mixture. The swollen gel is stable and can bestored even over prolonged periods of time so that it does not have tobe subjected to further processing immediately.

The wax used for the wax component is melted, optionally together withthe fat and/or oil, and preferably raised to a temperature in the rangeof between 50 and 100° C., preferably between 65 and 85° C. The amountof water necessary to produce the emulsion and which can containemulsifiers and co-emulsifiers is preferably also heated and then mixedwith the wax component. The procedure then involves adding to theresulting O/W emulsion, the swollen aqueous hydrocolloid, optionally thealcoholic gel and the dispersion of the film-forming agent. The mixingoperation is effected in each case until a homogeneous dispersion oremulsion is produced. The particulate constituents, in particularpigments and fillers, can then also optionally be added by mixing,optionally with auxiliary substances which improve compatibility.

The mixture is then agitated until it is homogeneous and is then cooledwith agitation. It is then optionally possible to add to that mixture,either while still in the hot condition or, if sensitive additives areinvolved, during the cooling operation, the active substances andadditives which are usually added for cosmetic purposes such asperfumes, plasticisers, gloss substances and so forth.

The preparation obtained is then introduced into packaging containersfor filling purposes. As the preparation according to the invention isdistinguished by particular stability, it can also be packaged in theheated condition, in which case ‘cold agitation’ is not necessary. Thatis advantageous on the one hand for reasons of hygiene and on the otherhand as flowability is generally better in the hot condition.

For specific embodiments it has proven to be advantageous for a part ofthe film-forming agent to be added to the wax component, which resultsin particular aesthetic products. A vinylpyrrolidone copolymer is usedin particular as the film-forming agent for the wax component, for thisembodiment.

The process according to the invention makes it possible for thepreparation to be produced easily, reproducibly and in large numbers.As, by virtue of its stability, the preparation can be processed atelevated temperature, it has advantages over known products, both inregard to hygiene and also in regard to process engineering.

The preparation according to the invention is particularly well suitedto coating keratinic materials. It is therefore preferably used forcoloring and/or shaping eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, hair pieces, beardsand other keratinic constituents. The preparation according to theinvention is particularly suitable as mascara as it adheres firmly toeyelashes, it does not bleed out, it does not crumble away and itremains on the eyelashes for a long time and durably until it is removedagain.

A further subject of the invention is therefore the use of thepreparation according to the invention for coloring and shapingkeratinic material and in particular for the production of mascaras.

The invention is described by the following Example without beingrestricted thereto.

EXAMPLE 1

A mascara material was produced of the following composition (amountsrespectively given in parts by weight, with the ingredients beingdenoted by the INCI/CTFA names): 2.3 Cera carnauba/Copernicia conifera(carnauba) wax 9.2 Cera alba/beeswax 4.0 Sun flower oil 1.7 Stearic acid1.7 Glyceryl stearate 0.2 Antioxidant 48 Aqua 0.5 Sodium lauryl sulfate3.4 Iron oxides 3.4 Mica 1.8 Diazolidinyl rice starch * 0.8 Almond oilPEG-6 ester 0.2 Preservative 3 Ethylene glycol 19.8 Acrylates copolymer* (The amount by weight of the hydrocolloid (diazolidinyl rice starch)relates to the weight prior to swelling).The specified constituents were used to produce an emulsion as describedabove which, after application, adhered for a long time.

1-29. (canceled)
 30. A cosmetic preparation in the form of an O/Wemulsion which besides usual cosmetic ingredients contains a waxcomponent, a film-forming system and at least one gel component, whereinthe gel component has at least one swollen hydrocolloid.
 31. A cosmeticpreparation as set forth in claim 30, wherein the wax componentcomprises one or more waxes which are solid at ambient temperature andwhich have a dropping point of between 50 and 200° C.
 32. A cosmeticpreparation as set forth in claim 31, wherein the wax component furthercomprises a combination of emulsifier and co-emulsifier.
 33. A cosmeticpreparation as set forth in claim 32, wherein the wax component furthercomprises volatile constituents selected from the group consisting ofsynthetic esters, silicone oils, dimethicone, cyclomethicone,isoparaffins and mixtures thereof in a concentration of up to 20%.
 34. Acosmetic preparation as set forth in claim 30, wherein the film-formingsystem comprises a film-forming polymer which is dispersed and/ordissolved in a medium.
 35. A cosmetic preparation as set forth in claim34, wherein the film-forming system is selected from the groupconsisting of an anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphotericpolyurethane, polyurethane-acrylic acid polymer,polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyester-polyurethane,polyether-polyurethane, polyurea, polyester, polyester amide, polyesterwith fatty chain, polyamide, epoxy ester resin, acryl polymer, vinylpolymer, acryl-silicone copolymer, nitrocellulose/acrylic copolymer,polymer of natural origin, hybrid polymer, polycondensation product,silicone copolymer and mixtures thereof.
 36. A cosmetic preparation asset forth in claim 30, wherein the hydrocolloid comprises awater-soluble, polymer which swells in water and forms a gel or a highlyviscous solution.
 37. A cosmetic preparation as set forth in claim 30,wherein the hydrocolloid is selected from the group consisting ofalginates, carrageens, pectins, tragacanth, gums, celluloses, starches,polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone and mixtures thereof.
 38. Acosmetic preparation as set forth in claim 30, wherein it contains anaqueous gel and an alcoholic gel.
 39. A cosmetic preparation as setforth in claim 30, wherein the aqueous gel comprises a starch derivativewhich is swollen in water.
 40. A cosmetic preparation as set forth inclaim 30, wherein the gel is an alcoholic gel which comprises acellulose derivative which is swollen with at least one of a monovalentand polyvalent alcohol, wherein the monovalent alcohol is a C₂-C₄alcohol and the polyvalent alcohol is a C₂-C₆ alcohol.
 41. A cosmeticpreparation as set forth in claim 40, wherein the cellulose derivativeis selected from the group consisting of hydroxymethylcellulose,hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose;hydroxyalkyl starch, dimethylimidazolidinone starch and mixturesthereof.
 42. A cosmetic preparation as set forth in claim 30, whereinthe gel comprises at least one preserving agent, at least one dispersingadditive, and optionally at least one plasticiser.
 43. A cosmeticpreparation as set forth in claim 41, wherein the swollen gel iscontained in a proportion of between 3 and 50%.
 44. A cosmeticpreparation as set forth in claim 30, wherein the hydrocolloid has awater absorption capacity in a range of between 100 and 600%.
 45. Acosmetic preparation as set forth in claim 30, wherein the hydrocolloidhas a water absorption capacity in a range of between 200 and 500%. 46.A cosmetic preparation as set forth in claim 30, wherein the preparationfurther comprises a particle phase.
 47. A cosmetic preparation as setforth in claim 46, wherein the particle phase is selected from the groupconsisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments, fillers and mixturesthereof.
 48. A cosmetic preparation as set forth in claim 47, whereinpigment contains at least one of iron oxides, ultramarine, chromiumoxide green, chromium hydroxide green, carbon black, titanium dioxide,zinc oxide, barium sulfate, carmine, lakes of organic coloring agents,aluminum, barium, calcium, potassium, strontium zinc lake, talcum andkaolin.
 49. A cosmetic preparation as set forth in claim 47, wherein thefillers are selected from the group consisting of talcum, kaolin,bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite, cerium oxide, silicon dioxide,ornitrite, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, polypropylene powder, silkpowder, polyvalent metal soaps, non-swellable starches, fruit fibers,exfoliation substances, sand, bran products, stone powder from stonefruits, algae derivatives, thermosetting, thermoplastic, elastomerpowder, and mixtures thereof.
 50. A cosmetic preparation as set forth inclaim 47, wherein the particle phase is present in an amount up to 30%.51. A cosmetic preparation as set forth in claim 30, wherein the waxcomponent is included in a proportion of between 15 and 30%, thefilm-forming system is included in a proportion of between 5 and 60%,the gel component is included in a proportion of between 3 and 50%, ineach case with respect to the weight of the total composition, thebalance being water and optionally cosmetic additives.
 52. A cosmeticpreparation as set forth in claim 51, wherein the cosmetic additives areselected from the group consisting of preserving agent, perfumes,extracts, protein hydrolysate, silk powder, and mixtures thereof.
 53. Aprocess for the production of a gel-bearing cosmetic preparationcomprises swelling a hydrocolloid in water, melting a wax component,forming an emulsion from the wax component by mixing the wax componentwith water and an emulsifier, adding the swollen hydrocolloid to theemulsion with a film forming system and agitating until homogeneous. 54.A process as set forth in claim 53, further including adding a particlephase to the mixture prior to agitating.
 55. A process as set forth inclaim 53, including adding to the mixture an alcoholic gel comprising atleast one monovalent alcohol, at least one polyvalent alcohol and agel-forming agent.
 56. A process as set forth in claim 53, wherein themixture is adjusted to a ph value of between 6.5 and 8.8.
 57. A processas set forth in claim 53, including shaping and/or coloring keratinicmaterial.
 58. A process as set forth in claim 53, including producingmascara.
 59. A process as set forth in claim 57, wherein the keratinicmaterial eyelashes, eyebrows, hair on the head, hair pieces and beardhair are colored.